Acrylic or polycarbonate dome skylights come is many sizes right now. The regular ones, having said that, are square to rectangular in form, and run about 5″ in height. Their width and size can be everywhere from 12″ to 36″, and are 1/8″ thick.
These domes can be mounted onto picket curbs (2×2″ to 2×6″), all over which the roof shingles are caulked or thin-metallic flashed to reduce any rain leakage close to them. These domes can also be surface area mounted immediately on to the tar paper and wood sheeting immediately beneath the shingles.
In the latter situation, the dome’s encompassing shingles by themselves are instantly laid in excess of its flat exterior flanges related to the way the shingles are commonly laid in excess of the flat metallic of roof vents, furnace stacks, sewer vents and so forth. This installation minimizes the dome’s height.
Problem. Possibly way, or no subject how the domes are mounted, they can and will develop undesired condensation and equivalent leaks even if they have an internal plastic shield inside them. These domes are also vulnerable to getting cracked from big hail, fallen tree branches, earthquakes, or careless roofers. When these activities happen, the skylights will leak rain drinking water as perfectly in addition to forming humidity.
Alternative. Build and put in a shallow-box-like 5-1/2″-large hard clear go over about the dome on the roof. This cover will act like a storm window does by having the brunt of temperature transform and the formation of most condensation. For this post, a 20″ sq. dome (which includes a 1″ flange on every aspect of the 18″-square dome alone), 5″ high, and area mounted specifically to the roof sheeting will be utilised as the illustration to be coated with the box-like storm address. Related addresses can be designed proportionally for other dome measurements.
Components and equipment (overall cost for pieces: $50-90, relying on the availability of the acrylic sheet).
- One 2x6x96″ force-treated board ($5)
- One 22×22″ sheet of heavy .22″ thick acrylic plexiglass ($25-60, relying on the slice measurements accessible at the outlet). If the piece have to be cut from a more substantial sheet, go away the protecting movies unpeeled on equally sides of the sheet until eventually the sawing is completed. Use a sharp fantastic-tooth saw blade. If not, allow the outlet slice it to dimension for you.
- Twelve #12×3″ Philips screws
- 20 to 30 – #8×1″ Philips drywall screws (large head)
- One particular smaller tube clear silicone caulk ($4)
- Two tubes silicone window/doorway caulk equivalent in shade to the roof shingles ($8)
- 4 perpendicularly flat 2-1/2″ L-formed brackets ($5)
- 8 #10×1″ wooden screws (for attaching the L-brackets to the include body)
- 8 #10×1-1/2 to 2″ wooden screws (for attaching the frame’s L-brackets to the roof by the shingles)
- A person quart oil-base h2o-proof paint identical in color to the roof shingles ($4)
- Tools: electric powered circular observed, electrical drill, bits, Philips screwdriver, caulking gun, putty knife, rat-tail file, paintbrush
1. Cut the 2×6″ board into four sq.-cornered pieces: 2 22″-very long kinds and 2 19″-extended kinds.
2. Assemble the 22″ square box-like body by sealing/securing the four corners with the silicone window/doorway water-proofing caulk and 3″ screws.
3. On what will be the reduced-finish of the base facet, use the file to make at minimum 3 50 percent-moon groves for humidity drainage.
4. Paint the two the inside and outside of the wooden frame. Allow dry.
5. Position the acrylic plexiglass flush around the frame.
6. Mark on the plexiglass in which the screw holes will go, about 5″ aside all around the major of the body.
7. At every single mark, drill a hole by way of the plexiglass (only) wider than the drywall screw.
8. Then, by employing a slim little bit, drill holes 1/2″ deep into the wood frame lifeless-centre as a result of the plexiglass holes.
9. Eliminate the plexiglass from the frame, noting how it suits onto the frame.
10. Brush absent any plastic or wood shavings from the frame and plexiglass.
11. With the silicone caulk, increase a slender bead lengthwise on every single side of the frame’s drill holes all around it.
12. Thoroughly exchange the plexiglass atop the body, aligning it to the unique drill holes accordingly.
13. Install the screws to medium tightness, so not to crack the plexiglass. The caulk will flatten and distribute involving the plexiglass and the body, sealing it.
14. Add at minimum one particular flat L-shaped bracket to every facet of the frame flush to its base side with the 1″ wooden screws.
15. Paint the brackets.
Go over set up (the straightforward way).
1. When employing protection precautions, carry the done go over up to the roof, assuming the roof is a reduced-pitch and protected to stroll on.
2. Center it around the dome skylight, square to sq..
3. Attach the dome to the roof via the shingles with the 1-1/2 to 2″ wooden screws, depending on the thickness of the shingles.
4. Seal the bottom aspect of the higher conclusion and equally sides of the cover with the silicone window/doorway caulk. Seal the brackets and screws the exact way. Go away the base side of the decreased conclusion unsealed for drainage. It is a storm window.
5. If necessary, touch-up the frame and brackets with paint.
By setting up the go over atop the shingles, the wooden sheeting beneath the shingles is also shielded from any moisture hurt. This placement also elevates the go over more than the dome for satisfactory air room.
This deal with will suppose the development of practically all the condensation that would otherwise manifest within the dome, none of which will make it through the dome into the household nor beneath the shingles. It will also shield the dome from hail, fallen tree branches, and other damages. To learn additional about skylight types and their maintenance, see these web pages.
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